Adjustable garment closure



April 8, 1930. KAPLAN 1,753 57 ADJUSTABLE GARMENT CLOSURE Filed July 14, 1926 3 Sheets-Sheet l .v 4/ 30 32 39 45 34 45 as 38 4o 23 /474)", {6 /8 24 FZ QJ IN VEN TOR.

'lsidor l1 aplan April 8, 1930. LKAPLAN ADJUSTABLE GARMENT CLOSURE Filed July 14." 1926 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 V EN TOR a e/an TTORNEYS I. KAPLAN r 1,753,657

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT CLOSURE April 8, 1930.

Filed July 14. 1926 s Sheets-Sheet 3 7 j TTORNEYS.

Patented Apr. 8, 1930 UNITED STATES ISIDOR KAPLAN, F YORK, N. Y.

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT CLOSURE Application filed July 14,

. This invention relates to adjustable gar- 'Inent closures adapted for use at the waists of trousers, bathing trunks or similar garments, at the knee ends of knickerbockers, at the sleeve ends of raincoats, and elsewhere at points where it is desirable that the garment be quickly and efliciently adjusted to fit the wearer without the formation of unsightly gaps or wrinkles. My invention contem-- plates the provision of a gusset of such construction and arrangement that a smooth, unwrinkled closure of good appearance is presented, the adjustment of which does not result in uncontrolled wrinkling of the gusset nor discomforting pressure on the wearer.

The various objects of my invention will be clear from the description which follows,

and from the drawings, in which the thickness of the material is exaggerated for c-learness and in which Fig. 1 is a rear elevation of my improved closure as applied to the waist of a garment, and showing the closure in its most constricted position.

Fig. 2 is a horizontal section of the same the belt loops not being sectioned for clearness.

Fig. 3 is a similar view of the same showing the closure adjusted to a partly. open position.

Fi 4 is a similar view of the same showing t e closure opened out nearly to its limitingpxtended position.

ig. 5 is a rear elevation of the waist portion of a garment showing one type of the adjustable fastening means for my improved closure. l

Fig. 6 is a side view ofthe leg end of knick erbockers showing the closure applied thereto.

Fi s. 7 and 8 are views similar to Fig. 5-

1926. Serial N0. 122,281.

length so that the adjacent arment sections 11 and 12 thus formed may e separated to a limited extent and adjusted to the proper spaced relation for allowing the rim 13 to fit the body part about which the garment is arranged. For closing the opening 22 in the garment caused by the partial separation of the sections 11 and 12, I provide the adspectively in the usual manner by turning the raw edge of the material inwardly. The

edges 17 and 18 of the gusset 14 are turned outwardly and the turned edges 15 and 17 seamed together by means of the stitching 19,

the edges 16 and 16 being similarly seamed by the stitching 20, the outer or right side 21 of the gusset material being presented in the space 22 between the edges 15 and 16. It will be understood from F i s. 2, 3, 4 and 7 that the peripheral edges 0 the gusset are bent toward each other and brought to a position outside of the main body 27 of the gusset before the stitching 19 and 20 is made. Because of this peculiar arrangement of the edge portions of the gusset, said edge portions are at all times arranged at a lesser distance apart than are the bends of the resulting folds indicated at 25 and 26 of Fig. 1. In order to maintain the exposed portion 27 of the gusset free from objectionable wrinkles or folds at all times a line of stitching 23 is made substantially parallel to the edge 15 and in spaced relation thereto, a similar line of stitching 24 being made in s aced relation to the edge 16, the stitching in 0th instances securing a substantial peripheral portion of the gusset to the garment. In addition to the stitching 23 and 24, and to aid inmaintaining theexposed portion 27 of the gusset flat at all times, said gusset is heavily creased and folded on the lines 25 and 26 along the bends or folds in the gusset which occur in the most contracted position thereof, whereby the portion 27 between the creases always tends to lie in a plane, and unwrinkled surface. It will be understood that the surplus material of the gusset resulting from the utmost possible constriction thereof is taken care of by reason of the drawing together of the edge portions 45 and 46 of the gusset in such a manner as to fold the sset into arts which lie a proximately in elther one 0 two substantial y parallel planes, and by reason further of the creasing in advance of said gusset along the bends or folds 25 and 26 into the substantially fiat portion 27 and the holding of the remaining portions 45 and 46 of the gusset flat between the part 27 andthe garment 10.

As the edges 15 and 16 are drawn apart (Fig. 3) the exposed portion 27 increases in width but nevertheless continues to lie substantiall flat between the positions of the reformed olds 25 and 26, the portions 45 and 46 correspondingly decreaslng in width. When the edges 15 and 16 are separated to substantially the fullest extent the portion 27 is of its greatest and the portions 45 and 46 of their least width, and the stitching23 and 24 prevents further separation of said edges while the tension on the rim 13 exerted by the body of the wearer is taken up b the fastening means for the closure soon to described. The pressure of the body against the portion 27 presses all of the gusset parts close to the garment 10, maintaining the gusset flat and unwrinkled, the folds 25 and 26 in the last instance being reformed adjacent to the stitching 23 and 24.

Similarly if the edges 15 and 16 are drawn together the folds 25 and 26 are reformed and re sitioned and take up all of the slack w ich might result in the gusset. The operation of drawing the edges 15 and 16 together tends to put a pull or tension upon the portions and 46 and to draw. the material from the edges of the gusset body 27 into said portions 45 and 46. B thus shortening the effective width of t e gusset, suflicient tension is put upon the gusset body to prevent it from wrinkling during the constricting o eration. The length of said gusset 14 is ma e somewhat greater than the length of the opening between the garment sections 11 and 12, the width of the gusset being preferably slightly greater at the top than at the bottom thereof, to conform to the triangular shape of the opening 22 resulting from the separation of the edges 15 and 16. The lower end of the gusset is suitably seamed to the garment by suitable stitching such as the triangular stitching 28, though it will be understood that stitching of any suitable outline may be used instead.

For securing the garment sections 11 and 12 in their ad usted positions, any one of a number of suitable fastening means may be used. The preferred form of fastening is shown in Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive and in Fig. 6. In the construction shown in the figures mentioned, a suitable belt, loop and buckle are em.- ployed. A loop as 29 preferably of wire and rectangular in outline is secured at one side 30 thereof to the garment sec tion 11 as by means of the strip 31 seamed to said section and folded over to provide a bend in which the loop is inserted. The other side 32 of said loop is passed through a movable bend in the belt 34, said bend bein formed when the sections 33 and 39 are fol ed one under the other. The end 35 of said belt is passed from the outside of the garment throu h the loop 29 and under the side 36 of the fiuckle frame 37 and then fastened to the cross bar 38 of the buckle. The outer belt section 39 is also passed under the buckle side 36 and over the'cross bar 38 then under the buckle side 40 and secured to the garment section 12 at the end 41 of the said outer belt section. In the most constricted position of the gusset 14 the buckle 37 as viewed in Figs. 1 to 4 is moved along the belt section 39 toward the end 41 whereby the end 35 of the belt is drawn toward the right, doubling the belt for a greater distance and lessening the operative length thereof. To loosen the belt so that the garment sections 11 and 12 may be separated the buckle 37 is moved toward the left and the operative length of the belt increased, thereby permitting tension on the garment rim 13 to increase the width of the gusset portion 27 The tension on' the garment is taken up by the belt section 39 the buckle being prevented from moving along the section 39 by the engagement of the buckle sides 36 and 40 with said section 39. as will be readily understood.

In that modification shown 1n Fig. 5 the belt is entirely dispensed with and there-instead are provided the eyelets 50 and the lacing 51 passing through said eyelets. In this construction, I prefer to fasten the eyelets in the edges 15 and 16 in such a manner that said eyelets are invisible from the outside of the garment as will be readily understood. The lacing may be loosened or tightened to the proper extent for adjusting the edges 15 and 16 to the desired distance.

The fastening means shown in Fig. 7 comprises a strap 55 secured at one end 56 thereof to the garment section 11, the free end 57 of said strap being provided with snap fastener members 58. Snap fastener members 59 cooperating with the members 58 are secured in spaced relation to the member 12 rangement of the fastener members 59 on a separate strap 60 secured to the garment section 12 whereby no fastener members need be sewndirectly to the garment itself.

It will be seen that I have, provided a garment closure which at all times is free from wrinkles and objectionable folds, which is forced by the body pressure to lie flat between the folds 25 and 26, automatically formed near the lines of stitching 23 and 24, which is quickly and easily adjusted to size and which cannot cause discomfort to the wearer. It will further be seen that my improved closure is adapted for use at various points in garments of varied types such as trousers, knickerbockers, bathing trunks, skirts, vests, rain coats and others as hereinbefore set forth and that material economy can be effected in ready-made clothing of all descriptions by the use of the closure for the reason that garments of many different sizes need not be kept in stock since a single garment provided with my improved closure can be used to fit persons of different measurements, particularly waist measurements. Furthermore it will be seen that an accurate fit may be obtained where necessary by the mere adjustment of the closure without materially affecting the good appearance of the garment.

While various changes may be made from the preferred construction shown, such as in the use of different types of fastening means, and in the proportions of the parts, and the adaptation of the closure to other garments not mentioned, it will be understood that such obvious changes and other changes are contemplated falling within the spirit and scope of this invention and within the range of equivalents afforded by the appended claims. r

I claim:

1. In a garment having a slit therein, finished edges at the slit comprising edge portions inturned from the garment body, a folded gusset of a tapered piece. of material distinct from the garment; comprising a flat panel portion on said gusset substantially parallel to the surface of the garment at all times, and adapted to be exposed on the widening of the slit in the garment, endportions folded back on and substantially parallel to said flat portion, pre-arranged creases at the bends betweensaid end portions and said flat portion, means for securing the gusset to the garment across the slit, comprising two substantially parallel lines of stitching for each end portion runnin to the bottom of the slit, one of the lines o stitching joinin the end portion of the sset to the into ded edge portion at the slit, the other line of stitching being independent of and spaced from the inturned edge portion, and adjustable means for normally preventing widening of said slit. a

2. In a garment,-a pair of adjustable sections constituting the body portion of the garment and separated by a slit passing through and extending part-way of the length of the garment, said sections having straight edges adapted to meet in the most constricted position of the garment and adapted to be spread into angular position about the bottom of the slit as a vertex, a gusset of a separate piece of material, tapering to less width at the bottom than at the top thereof and of greater width, than the greatest possible distance between the edges of the slit, inturned portions at the edges of said gusset and said sections, stitching seaming the adjacent inturned portions of said gusset and sections together to form finished edges on the gusset and the sections at said slit, said gusset comprising a back panel of predetermined size in the constricted positions of the garment andedge portions folded upon said panel and said sections and substantially parallel thereto, a line of stitching terminating "at the bottom of said slit, in spaced relation to said inturned portions and substantially parallel to the edge of the slit joining an edge portion of the gusset to the corresponding section, and permanent creases in said gusset at the folds between said panel and gusset edge portions for maintaining said panel and ed e portions flat at all times and in approximate y either one of two substantially parallel planes.

3. In a garment having a slit therein, extending a predetermined distance from the edge of the garment and perpendicular thereto, inturned marginal portions. at said slit, folded on the inner face of the garment, a gusset of a separate piece of material flatly p're-folded in the most contracted position thereof, edge portions on said gusset secured to the inturned marginal portions and bent toward each other to form a pair of folds converging toward each other, permanent converging straight creases at the folds formed in said position, two substantiall parallel lines of stitching for fastening eac of the ed e portions of the gusset in the garment, eacli of said lines of stitching being an ranged between the adjacent crease and the adjacent edge of the slit, and adjustable fastening means extending across the slit.

ISIDOR KAPLAN 

